The Twisted History of the Maraschino Cherry

Maraschino Cherries originated in the historic region of Dalmatia, Croatia on the shores of the Adriatic Sea. Mascara Cherries were preserved in a liqueur distilled from their own skins and seeds. Elite Europeans and rich Americans deemed them an exotic delicacy increasing demand and reducing supply, making them scarce and expensive. 

 

Counterfeiters in France began selling fake Maraschinos and the fakes made their way to New York. The New York Times called the fakes “a tasteless, indigestible… formless, gummy lump” in 1911! This prompted the fledgling Food & Drug Administration in 1912 to define them exclusively as “Mascara Cherries preserved in Maraschino Liqueuer”- AKA the REAL Maraschinos – all others were to be labeled “imitation.”

 

Then came Prohibition in 1920. This made the cherries preserved in alcohol illegal, but still very high in demand. In 1925, innovation led to developing a brining solution that also bleached the color from the cherries. Sugar and dye were then added in a process that was perfected at Oregon State University, thus creating the sundae-topping, cocktail inhabiting Maraschino Cherry we think of today.

 

More candy than fruit, a sweet confection to be sure, but harmless as a Lifesaver. But for The New York Times – and Molly Wellmann – STILL NOT GOOD ENOUGH! 

 

In 2005, The New York Times complained that they are “the culinary equivalent of an embalmed corpse.”

 

Harsh! And to quote The Dude from “The Big Lebowsky” – “That’s just like your opinion, man!”

 

 

In the end, to each his own, and life really is just a bowl of cherries – except when they’re modern-day Maraschinos – then it’s just a bowl of candy! Either way, Viva La Dolce Vita!